what happens when you say "what the hell?" 60 foot monkeys and amazing food.

Delhi.

"What's that? Is that Hanuman?" I am pointing at a 60 foot tall giant pink monkey sculpture in the middle of downtown Delhi. "It's a temple" says my guide and with eyebrows raised - "wanna go see?" How could I say no - it's a 60 foot tall sculpture in the middle of insane traffic. After we navigate the traffic and the beggars, I'm instructed to wash my hands, take off my shoes, and in we go. At first it's what I expected - garish sculptures of Hanuman, Shiva, Sita, Ram, Kali among other deities. But then I notice the giant sculptured crocodile's mouth. My guide asks me if I want to go inside the mouth - so I take a peek in - it involves a steep staircase that goes underground into darkness and the unknown but I figure - "what the hell how bad can this be?" So down I go, crouching through smaller and smaller openings till I'm almost on my knees into an underground cave. The cave is filled with more brightly adorned vegas style sculptures, adding some glow to the otherwise dank, dark and musty smell... Then I look up ahead and - oh no - a huge deep puddle. This is exactly the kind of thing tourists are warned about. "do not go wading about barefoot through bodies of water, no matter how shallow" I remember reading that somewhere, maybe for me they should of added - "in a cave in the middle of a dirty, dirty, city." I look to my guide, who is earnestly blessing himself in front of almost every deity and again think - "what the hell, there's really no politely turning back so - offer it up right?" In I go pants wet, wading up to my ankles, barefoot in Lord knows what. I round the corner of the cave to dry land, and voila there's a holy man!! He offers me a blessing, anointing my forehead with some red paste, offering me holy water to drink, and prasad (blessed food) of seeds and dried fruit. Perhaps, the journey really is the destination.

My guide and I have hit it off. He likes my adventurous spirit, and we are already planning future trips to see "real India" where he can take me into the rural villages to stay with families, but not this trip. This trip I have an agenda of tourist things to see. Per my request, he drops me next at the National Museum, which is in horrible condition. Having owned and art gallery and worked at a museum, I'm a little horrified at how these timeless pieces are being cared for. But, on the brightside, since they don't care - I was able to pay to use my camera to get some luscious shots of the sculptures (which cameras don't do much damage to - regardless I was flash "off"). I spent so much time inside my guide thought he lost me. After we zipped off to the National Gallery of Modern Art which a fascinating look into some of India's current leading artists. I have a list of artists whose work I admired while I was there, and have googled most of them. Not suprisingly, there is very little about them on the web, and very few of them have websites. There is so much hidden talent in the world.

Both of us starving, he suggests we go to place for lunch only known for locals. There is a line out the door and not a foreigner in sight. Again, this is the kind of thing your mother warns you about. There are flies everywhere, and giant bubbling concoctions in the window with lazy, street, dogs lolling about. My guide tells me he takes barely any of his guests here. Only the special ones. I smile, but really I'm just hoping I don't get food poisoning and that the blessing from the holy man keeps on ticking through this meal. When we finally get a seat in the crammed restaurant it is with a ton of other folks at a table - like I said in another post - personal space does not exist here. First course raw red onion with chutney. As is custom, there are no utensils. As you might imagine after a giant plate of this suprisingly delicious treat, I won't be snuggling up to anyone anytime soon. This is followed by naan, fish, chicken, and beef. All served in the most amazing, rich, delicious sauces that make you think you've died and gone to heaven. The first bite of fish was completely a food orgasm. We share everything, and whatever I don't finish, my guide just reaches over and eats right off my plate. That's the way here. I half expected the guy across the table to do the same thing.

I tried to snap a few pictures of the restaurant and managed to get a couple but was quickly told no more. So instead I settled for talking to my lovely new friend, turns out he has a wife, two boys, a dog. He has worked for the travel industry for years and is hoping a job comes through at a new upscale hotel where he will be handling all of their marketing and travel for tourists. He only does this driving work when times are tough, but in general he's a do it yourself travel agent. He's incredibly proud of his work, his heart is in it, and also in his Hindu faith. He is part of a system that still believes that elders are always right, so much so, that even as a grown man (I would guess him to be about 40), if he wants to go on a trip he must first have it approved by his older brother and his mother. He will never divorce, and is devoted to his family, though it is apparent that while he supports and understands my brazen career oriented American personality, in his world - the woman's place is in the home. He is kind, knowledgeable, he tells wonderful stories, and he is genuinely concerned for my safety - at least for the next three days.

I think I adore this man. Tommorrow Jaipur.