Wanna pet my snake?

"Wanna pet my snake?" If I had a dollar for every time I've heard that line I'd be a rich lady. But this time, I'm afraid it was for real. I've been hanging my head out the car window trying to snap images of Indian life, when I'm whipped back into reality by a "holy man" with a giant chocolate colored snake at the driver window. Sanjay my driver quickly grabs a coin touches it to the snake and then deposits it in the man's flower covered urn. Apparently, this brings good luck, and as such I am instructed to do the same. Now, this would be okay except anyone that knows me knows that the only thing I am deathly terrified of in the entire world is in fact snakes. And here I am trapped, in the place that heaven forgot with a snake sneaking through the window. I suddenly have this vision that it will attack if I don't pay. The holy man waits. Quickly, I grab a coin and like a game toss chuck it in the urn, brushing the snake on the way. Bleck! Ick... Brrr.. I'm still shaking off the feeling.

At this point after everything I've seen, nothing suprises me.

I have also learned that there is a shady side to the tourist industry. Drivers of all kinds (taxi, limo, bus, etc) actually earn points by taking you to tourist trap stores, where typically everything is overpriced. The sales people at these places are pushy to say the least. I have already been bullied into two overpriced boxes of tea. I'm getting better at saying no, but it's tough - they literally follow you around the store, pulling out things along the way. I have agreed to go into these stores, because as I mentioned before - I adore my driver. If he earns enough points by the end of the year he earns a cash bonus. This is the least I can do. Most of these places are junk, but today we actually stopped at a beautiful store, owned by a family from Kashmir. First off, everyone I've met from Kashmir is exquisitely beautiful, and the men are no exception. Not even one second through the door I got swept off my feet by a young man who grabbed my hand, "you are so beautiful, let me show you around." In my head I'm already channeling my inner Jerry Maguire moment "you had me at hello." He's an excellent salesperson, next thing I know I'm being served tea, and watching a Kashmir rug being made on the loom. The whole process is explained to me in depth, all while he's kneeling at my side gazing into my eyes - how it takes a year and half to make a rug, how the threading is so carefully done by hand. It's true, the rugs really are works of art. Then we went to jewelry section... my weakness. I looked at everything, and though it was much nicer than anything I have seen thus far I thought I was home free... until.... I spotted a tray of what appeared to be antique earrings. Apparently, my radar managed to find the most expensive items in the jewelry section as they were old pieces from Kashmir, or so I'm told. Next thing I know he is taking off my scarf, and gently taking out my earrings and putting in the new ones all while telling me how gorgeous I am, and brushing my cheek and my hair. I am being dressed and undressed from the bust up and decorated by this exquisite human being - but hey, I just went with it. There is something about that kind of man - the gentle touch, the genuine intrigue, the admiring looks, the almost conceited confidence - makes me go weak in the knees. You all know what I'm talking about. Its probably a good thing I had to turn him down for a date since I was on my way out of Delhi (insert sigh). But ahhh...needless to say, I left feeling like I had just had sex without the work and a take home gift of a gorgeous pair of earrings.... even if I did have to barter the price down from $275 to $50.

oh and p.s. - today i mastered squat toilets. the fun never stops.